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What the papers say

Square Meal

The menu has hardly changed down the years, but it hardly needs to. By 6pm customers have found their way off the A19 to the attractive village of Osmotherley in the foothills of the North Yorkshire moors and are rattling the door. In no time the brown wood, candlelit bar is throbbing.

Tried and trusted classics dominate, cooked with generous assurance. Start with king prawns in garlic butter, mussels with shallots and cream, a mushroom risotto or tomato and basil soup. Follow with cod and chips, homemade chicken Kiev, calf’s liver and onions, steak and kidney pudding with a suet crust or, a great favourite, char-grilled poussin dripping in garlic and rosemary.

There are properly made vegetarian and pasta options, usually good service under pressure, and no problems for children who want both chocolate and toffee sauce on their ice cream. Best to book at weekends.